DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGICAL PARAMETERS OF SCHOOL CLOTHING WITH SIGNS OF ERGONOMIC ADAPTABILITY

Abstract

The paper addresses a relevant scientific and applied problem regarding the improvement of the ergonomic quality of school clothing for primary school children (6–10 years old). The relevance of the topic is driven by the necessity of creating a comfortable and safe educational environment, where clothing acts as an active adaptive system that does not restrict the child's movements and contributes to the correct formation of their musculoskeletal system. It has been proven that existing design methodologies, based on static anthropometry, do not fully account for the movement kinematics of the modern schoolchild. This leads to a "static-dynamic conflict," which negatively affects the well-being of the child, who spends approximately 85% of study time in a forced "sitting" posture or in dynamics, causing restricted mobility and circulatory disorders. Based on a system analysis of the "human–clothing" biomechanical system, the values of dynamic increments in dimensional features critical for form shaping were experimentally established. It was determined that upon transitioning from a "standing" position to a working "writing" posture, the back length along the spine increases by 4-6% (up to 10% for girls); linear measurements of the outer arm surface during flexion increase by 10–12% (up to a maximum of 15%), and waist circumference in the sitting position increases by 4.5–6.0 cm. These data underscore the unsuitability of standard design allowances calculated primarily for a static posture. The necessity of transitioning from fixed allowances to parametric standardization is scientifically substantiated. A mathematical model for calculating the total design allowance is proposed, which includes a variable functional component for dynamic extension. This allowed neutralizing the "leverage effect," where clothing resists movement, and justifying an increase in the chest line allowance to 6–8 cm. A complex of innovative design and technological solutions for boys and girls has been developed: introduction of an anatomical sleeve cut with a preliminary axis bend of 10-15 degrees; use of adaptive elastic gusset inserts in the armholes and side seams; and development of a dynamic waistband construction using perforated elastic tape, ensuring automatic volume adjustment. The manufacturing technology has been improved through the application of selective fusing, allowing preservation of up to 90% of the fabric's natural elasticity in zones of greatest tension. Experimental validation results confirmed the effectiveness of the developments: a 12.4% reduction in the dynamic resistance force of the clothing, a 60% increase in movement comfort, and a 12.5% increase in product wear resistance indicators. The calculated coefficient of dynamic conformity of the shoulder girdle construction increased from 0.72 to 0.91, indicating the creation of an adaptive ergonomic system. The integral quality index increased by 35–53%, testifying to the creation of a new generation ergonomic product.